In mid-February a group of Denver Botanic Gardens supporters and I began an exciting journey to Peru, spending time in each of the three major climate zones – the coastal desert, mountainous Andes highlands, and the rainforest of eastern Peru. Over the next several weeks, I will present highlights from this trip, sponsored by Denver Botanic Gardens and Reefs to Rockies Travel. We begin our adventure in Peru’s capital city, Lima. Located on the Pacific coast in a coastal desert climate, Lima is a large city of nearly 9 million people (almost one third of Peru’s total population). I was impressed with the cleanliness of the city and the many beautiful parks and boulevards throughout the area. Our first scheduled activity was a visit to the Larco Herrera Museum – a wonderful museum dedicated to Pre-Columbian Peru. Exhibits are arranged chronologically and include hundreds of artifacts, some over 3000 years old. The ceramics were particularly interesting, especially the many beautiful examples of Whistling Vessels (Ceramic jars with two openings - when water is poured from one opening, air rushes in the other and creates a whistling sound.). Ulla, our enthusiastic and passionate tour guide, did an incredible job of describing the significance of the shape of and decorations on all the various jars. Textiles were also well represented. An important advancement in textiles came with the full domestication of cotton around 1000 BC. Cotton provided stronger fishing nets and therefore a more reliable source and amount of food. Hunters and gatherers were gradually replaced with fishermen - allowing the development of the first commercial centers along Peru’s coast. The museum also has many beautiful examples of ceremonial textiles. I particularly admired a brightly colored blue and gold “standard” or flag that was found buried in a clay jar in a dessert in southern Peru. It is believed to date from between 800 and 1300 AD. It was only upon closer examination that I saw how the colors were created - each block of color was made up of thousands of small blue or gold macaw feathers. After far too short a stay, we loaded onto our bus and headed off to see the Barbosa-Stern art collection. We were given a tour of this private collection of Viceregal art by Sylvia Stern and her son, Aldo Barbosa. The tour was very enlightening, showing how early European settlers (mostly Spanish) influenced art in the region. Especially interesting was the use of art by the Catholic Church to persuade the Inca to convert to Catholicism. Our hosts helped interpret the symbolism in the paintings (many on copper or tin “canvases”) and explained how images were adapted from European standards to be more relevant to the Inca culture. For example, instead of the camels you might see in a European painting, the early religious paintings in South America might have shown a llama or alpaca. Angel wings often had bright colors – suggesting condor or parrot feathers rather than wings of a dove. Perhaps one of the most famous examples of this regional adaptation is a painting by Marcos Zapata in the cathedral in Cusco. This rendition of The Last Supper shows Jesus and his disciples dining on Cuy (Guinea Pig) and partaking in a glass of Chicha – a local “beer”. We finished our day in Lima with dinner at Casa Aliaga – the oldest colonial mansion in Lima. The home was built on land given to the Aliaga family by Franzisco Pizarro in 1535 and has been inhabited by descendents of the Aliaga family ever since. We enjoyed a short presentation on Andean flora and then a wonderful meal including lucama custard drizzled with chocolate – a favorite local dessert. After an exhausting day, we returned to our hotel to prepare for an early flight the next morning. I don’t think any of us had trouble sleeping – except for the short interruption by a 4.2 earthquake!</p>
About this time each year I start itching to see the first blooms of spring. Thankfully, the Orangery at Denver Botanic Gardens is currently loaded with colorful orchid blossoms. Come visit our Orchid Showcase to help quench your thirst for that burst of spring color. Our Orchid Showcase (which runs through February 20th) features hundreds of orchid plants in full bloom artfully arranged throughout the entire Orangery. The colorful blossoms are complimented by exotic bromeliads and other lush tropical foliage as well as citrus trees – many of which are also currently in full bloom. Between the scent of the citrus blossoms and the bright colors of the orchid flowers, it’s easy to forget that it is still winter. Unless of course it is snowing outside – but this only makes the warmth and coziness of the Orangery all the more enjoyable. If you’d like to learn a bit more about growing orchids, we are also offering free orchid repotting demonstrations each Saturday and Sunday afternoon at 12:30. Just drop by Marnie’s Pavilion and a Horticulture staff member will be on hand to help ease any anxiety you may have about repotting and caring for orchids. The Orangery at the west end of the greenhouse complex has quickly become one of my favorite new spaces at Denver Botanic Gardens. Sitting on a comfortable garden bench surrounded by beautiful lush plant life is especially enjoyable on a cold winter day. It’s not often you can enjoy hundreds of orchid blossoms interspersed with blossoming citrus trees juxtaposed with snow covered pines just a few feet away. I hope you will find time to pay a visit soon.</p>
</p> There are a number of plants that are clever enough to bloom during the winter months: none more predictably, nor beautifully, however, than the ill-named Christmas rose (Helleborus niger</em>). There are a few selections of this species that often begin to bloom in October or November most years, and yes, these may happen to be in bloom for Christmas. But invariably by January, I always have a few of these huge, waxy white flowers opening in my home garden. Mike Kintgen reports that they are blooming in the Rock Alpine Garden right now, and likely in one of the many other gardens where these are planted at Denver Botanic Gardens.</p> </dt> Helleborus niger at Denver Botanic Gardens Waring House, March 2011</dd> </dl> So why not call these "New Year Roses"? a more apt and accurate name...oh well. Fat chance. Christmas has a stranglehold on the name. There is a whole industry in Europe cranking out Christmas cards with paintings of these lovely plants. I'm sure there have been tens of thousands of these over the years. I love the thick, leathery leaves, with their lyrate pattern almost as much as their blooms. The foliage makes a wonderful evergreen fountain of color year around, and make a graceful setting for these enormous flowers. I have seen these nearly 3" across in some forms: the petals are thick and waxy and simply gorgeous. Some age a deep rose red. It will bloom through thick or thin (and we are sure to have some very cold weather still) for the next three months: a marathoner if there ever was one! There is an enormous amount written about this plant in books, magazines and the web: worth browsing. It has accumulated great herbal lore (don't try it, though: it's very poisonous!), and a great deal of myth. I finish by saying that it loves Colorado, and should be planted by everyone here. Give it a good loam, enriched with a bit of humus in part shade. Don't let it dry out too much (especially the first year as it establishes). Once established in the right spot, this is quite tough, even somewhat xeric and likely to last in the garden for the rest of your life! (You can't say this about many herbaceous plants)...There are a wealth of hybrids of Christmas rose becoming available, not to mention a veritable revolution occuring with Lenten Roses: these, however, are mere distractions and side shows as far as I'm concerned: this is the Queen flower of winter. Let us bow down in wonder and worship! (I do anyway).</p>
From time to time, the greenhouse team at Denver Botanic Gardens will build hypertufa troughs. These troughs are a great addition to a garden, especially for showcasing some of the rock garden plants, native wildflowers, and cacti that might otherwise be lost in a larger landscape. We sell our planted troughs at the Spring and Fall Plant Sales and occasionally throughout the season at the Shop at the Gardens. However, if you are interested in making your own hypertufa troughs, I would like to share with you our process and recipe for making a simple hypertufa trough.</p> </p> Supplies</strong></p> For this project, you will need the following supplies:</p> Portland cement (either white or gray--if you are using a dye, the color of the cement will effect the dye)</li> Vermiculite</li> Sphagnum peat moss</li> Concrete dye</li> Synthetic concrete reinforcement fibers</li> A plastic mold, such as a large bowl, a cat litter tray or a dish pan</li> 1mm or thicker plastic sheeting (this can be a thick trash bag, a painting drop cloth, etc.)</li> Water</li> </ul> </p> Where to get supplies</strong></p> In the Denver area, most of these supplies are readily available. The peat moss and vermiculite can be found at most garden supply centers or at a large retail horticulture products supplier. The Portland cement, concrete dye and synthetic reinforcement fibers can be found at any specialty concrete supply store.</p> Supplies prep</strong></p> The task that will take you the longest in your trough making endeavor is the materials prep. The cement and vermiculite can be used as is. It is advised that the peat moss be sieved to remove large particulates and to provide a smaller grain material. However, if your goal is a coarser appearance, the sieving is not necessary.</p> The materials that take the most prep time are the synthetic fibers. When they are purchased, the fibers have the appearance of clumps of white strings. The fibers are added for stability and need to be consistent throughout the batch. To obtain this consistency, the fibers need to be ‘fluffed’ before they can be added to the mixture. This can be done by rubbing the fibers between your fingers until they take on the appearance of a pile of cat hair. It can be quite time consuming, but definitely worth the effort.</p> </p> Tools</strong></p> Dust mask</li> Rubber gloves</li> Wire brush</li> Propane torch</li> A bucket or container for measuring your dry ingredients</li> Wheelbarrow or suitable container for mixing the hypertufa</li> </ul> Mixing the hypertufa</strong></p> Once you have obtained and prepped your materials, it is time to mix the dry ingredients. It is advisable to always wear a dust mask and rubber gloves when working with Portland cement. We have experimented with several recipes; the following recipe is our favorite for strength and appearance:</p> 2 parts Portland cement</li> 3 parts vermiculite</li> 3 parts peat moss</li> 1-2 cups of dye (depending on the color you are hoping to achieve)</li> 3-4 cups of ‘fluffed’ synthetic fibers (this will translate to about a 1/4 cup unfluffed fibers). These fibers will not be added to the dry mixture; rather, they will be mixed in as you are adding water.</li> </ul> The size of the trough (or troughs) you are hoping to obtain will determine the amount of hypertufa you mix. If your goal is to make one small trough, the bucket you are using to measure out your ‘parts’ should reflect this size.</p> </p> Once you have mixed up your dry ingredients in the wheelbarrow/mixing container, it is time to add water. It is important to only add a little bit of water at a time; if your mixture becomes too wet, the end result will not resemble hypertufa. If you have a partner to aid in this process, the extra set of hands will be very helpful. While one person is using a shovel to turn the mixture, the other person can be incrementally adding water and synthetic fibers. This is also a good time to make any adjustments to the color of the mixture by adding more dye, if necessary. The desired result is a mixture that when squeezed in your hand both holds its shape and releases just a few drops of water. If you squeeze the mixture and it feels squishy or you can visibly see a lot of water forcing out, you have added too much water.</p> </p> Filling the forms</strong></p> Now that your mixture is ready to go, it is time to start making the trough by adding the mixture to the form (the plastic container) that you have chosen. As you will have to cover the finished project later with the plastic sheeting, it is a good idea to lay the sheeting down before you begin the molding process. As this is also a bit of a messy project, the sheeting will protect whatever surface you are working on.</p> In general, regardless of the size of your trough, you want the walls and bottom to be between 1-1/2 - 2 inches thick. Begin by adding shovelfuls of mixture to your form. This mixture needs to be compacted (to form the base) either by pushing with your hands or using a block of wood to push it down. If you do not compact the hypertufa, as it dries it will form holes in the trough and will generally lose stability.</p> As you are forming the base, start working your way of the side walls of the form. If the walls of your form are somewhat steep, it may be difficult to compact the mixture against the form. If this is the case, you can try compacting the mixture in your hands and then apply it to the inside of the form.</p> As you continue to build the walls of the trough, remember to keep the thickness consistent. It is very important that you make a drain hole in the bottom of your trough. If the trough is larger, you may want to make two or three holes. This is the best time to make the hole; if you forget, it will be necessary to drill it out once the trough has dried.</p> Curing</strong></p> Once you have molded the hypertufa in to the form and you are happy with the way it looks, it is time to begin the curing process. This is a two stage process; the first part lasts between 24-48 hours and the longer curing should take about four weeks.</p> Immediately after finishing the molding process, you will cover the trough with the plastic sheeting. Between 24 and 48 hours you will remove the trough from the form and leave it under the plastic sheeting. When to remove the trough is determined by the hardness of the mixture. If you can scratch it with your fingernail, it probably needs about 12-20 more hours. If you need a screwdriver to scratch the surface, this is about the right hardness. In general, smaller troughs take longer to cure than larger ones.</p> To get the desired appearance for your trough, this is the time when you would use the wire brush to rough up the outer surfaces of your trough. Most likely the plastic form will have left the trough looking shiny and smooth. Typically, hypertufa troughs have a rough and more weathered appearance. The wire brush will help you alter the texture to your liking. To make the trough as strong as possible, the longer curing method is recommended.</p> Once you have removed the trough from its form and altered the texture, place the trough back under the plastic and keep it at room temperature for four weeks. You will want to occasionally check the trough to make sure it is not drying out. If it feels dry, moisten it with water. After the curing process, if all goes well, you are ready to plant your trough! Remember to use well-draining soils and chose plants that are suitable for troughs.</p> </p>
Now Ellen! I don't decry your lovely shots of snow, but flowers are still blazing out there! Let's not rush into this winter thing quite yet (although I don't deny we've had two good blasts of snow the last few weeks). I counted dozens of plants with flowers lingering, and there are (in fact) a few that are actually at the very peak of bloom, despite some very frosty nights of late...the most glorious of these are several kinds of (true) autumn crocuses, such as...</p> </p> </p> Crocus medius</em> brings a vibrant blast of Mediterranean color and always seems to pick mid-November to strut its stuff. We have clumps that are 30 years old, although this wonderful planting (this is just a corner...there are hundreds) was just put in a few years ago. Worth making a pilgrimage to the far west end of the Gardens to worship at its feet on a sunny November day, believe me! Those anthers are something!</p> </p> You shall just have to take my word for it, but there are hundreds of these blooming just east of the Cactus and Succulent house, and they are glorious. This wonderful crocus was only discovered a half century ago on the Mani Peninsula by its namesake botanist (Dr. Constantine Goulimis, a remarkable Greek polymath lawyer). Each year it blooms, I imagine Constantine's amazement when he stumbled upon the vast colonies of this that stretch along this rugged, remote peninsula.</p> </p> I have been marvelling at Crocus speciosus</em> in my own garden for nearly two months, and here it is still blaring its brilliant lavender trumpets in mid-November. Some day I must go to the pinewoods near Constantinople where this grows by the million I am told...(I mean Istanbul..or to be precise, "Rum").</p> </p> And finally, there are still some ""Autumn Crocus"" in bloom (the multiple quotes are meant to alert you to the fallacious nature of the name. People still insist on calling Colchicums crocuses, although they are more closely allied to lilies (albeit botanists have recently put them in their own family: Colchicaceae!). Lilies have six stamens, but Iridaceae like Crocus</em> only have three. End of botany lesson! But it is not the end of our flowering season by any means. I suspect that the grove of Witch Hazels at Regis Arboretum are coming into bloom any day now (Hamamaelis vernalis</em>) and my Daphne </em>x transatlantica </em>has hundreds of fresh flowers. There are several species of cyclamen still blooming, and pansies around town are just kicking in. Let's not forget unseasonable blooms on lots of ice plants, phlox and geraniums! And of course, the Ussurian pears, the rowans and most oaks around town are ablaze with spectacular autumn color. The calendar and I proclaim that winter is still not here. Ellen--let's not rush things!</p>
Colorado has always been a great source of pride for me. I am a native of this beautiful state and find its natural environment therapeutic. Despite moving out of state for school or work, I often found myself returning to my home state. I knew I would eventually settle here as I envisioned my future. I had dreams of having a family; taking my children hiking on Mount Evans, exploring the banks of the great Grand Lake and camping in Rocky Mountain National Park. However, five years ago my dreams suffered a set-back when my daughter Marley was born with Down syndrome and developed pulmonary hypertension. As a result, her medical condition prevents us from traveling into the mountains and taking advantage of all Colorado has to offer.</p> It wasn't until last year when I discovered the Mordecai Children's Garden that I realized my dream wasn’t completely gone. In fact, my daughter is now able to discover and learn about Colorado's native plants and landscape in an innovative way. In a three acre urban setting, Marley can experience the feeling of being in the middle of large pine trees in Mist'ery Forest and explore life along Pipsqueak Pond. She can even hike the Fourteener Range all the way to Marmot Mountain! Although, we haven’t braved it yet, we are excited to participate in next year’s Cottonwood Campout, giving her the full experience of sleeping under the stars. In addition to her being able to safely explore the Children’s Garden, staff and volunteers frequently provide activities that allow her to learn at her own pace, while being challenged by the other children playing in the garden.</p> I want this enriching environment to continue not only for my daughter, but for all</em> children, regardless of their abilities. My new vision is that this important resource continues well into the future. This garden has its own therapeutic element for both my daughter and</em> me as I watch her roam and explore, just like I dreamed she would. </p> Now my family has the chance to be a part of its permanence thanks to a limited-time opportunity by the Mordecai Children’s Garden Leadership Circle and the Daniel and Janet Mordecai Foundation. My gift to its endowment will now be matched 3:1, ensuring this garden’s longevity and my daughter’s legacy will live on in the garden on the new donor trellis. Won’t you consider a gift to the Mordecai Children’s Garden Endowment challenge before it ends on November 30th and witness for yourself why we all should continue to take pride in this wonderful community and its natural resources, while leaving your own family legacy!</p> This blog post was written by Tonya Yada Kelly, former employee of Denver Botanic Gardens.</em></p>
</p> I start off with high summer: if I showed the "after" picture you would not be impressed...late winter can be very bleak, and the picture below seems to reinforce all our prejudices. But wait! Winter isn' perhaps as dismal as these pictures would let you believe!</p> </p> I know</strong> it looks stark! Just wait.. over the next few months I will try to persuade you to see with fresh eyes and realize that winter has a profound and sometimes even flashy beauty that does not depend necessarily on lights and extraordinary marketing. It is the quiet season and contemplation is somehow enhanced by this.</p> </p> But do not forget the truly wondrous display in Marnie's Pavilion. The Boettcher Memorial Tropical Conservatory is always dazzling, however this space was designed to show orchids up close and to let you experience the smaller plants more intimately. Winter is not welcome herein!</p> </p> Best of all, you can walk from the main entrance (the Education Building) practically to the Japanese garden under glass! The doors leading into the Orangery open and close according to temperatures, but I find it especially fetching in winter.... Winter at Denver Botanic Gardens is emphatically NOT just branches, berries and bark! There is something blooming outdoors even in the longest, darkest days of winter...and the greenhouses, Orangery, Boettcher Memorial Conservatory and Marnie's Pavilion are the perfect escape from the doldrums. Do come by and visit often in this quietest and most contemplative of seasons!</p>
</p> Colorado is reputed to have such a harsh climate that many trees could never grow here, like flowering dogwoods (Cornus florida) or Sweetgums (Liquidambar stracuiflua</em>). Once again, conventional wisdom is proved WRONG </em></strong> by Denver Botanic Gardens! We boast a fabulous specimen not far west of York St. in the Sensory Garden: I have admired this the last ten or fifteen years it has been growing rapidly, but only last year and this year has it finally fulfilled my expectations for fall color: right next to our only Sassafras</em>, it rivals that magnificent tree in its fiery foliage. Yes, yes...I know we had 8" of wet snow yesterday. Both Sassafras</em> and Liquidambar</em> (and most every other tree at the Gardens) came through very well. Everyone panics with our untimely snows (and we do get them every year!), but plants are resilient, and the better plants are almost immune! So keep planting better plants!</p> </p> "Boston ivy" (Parthenocissus cuspidata</em>) is not seen nearly as much as English ivy in Colorado. This Japanese cousin to Virginia Creeper is rather neater in growth form--rather resembling a deciduous English Ivy--and the fall color is often quite good. This year it has been exceptional. The Waring house positively glows!</p> </dt> Closeup of Parthenocissus cuspidata ("Boston" ivy)</dd> </dl> Every keen lover of fall color I speak to says the same thing: this has been a magnificent year for fall color. When Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica</em>), American elm (Ulmus americana</em>) and all the Lindens turn brilliant yellow and positively glow you know it is a really good fall color year. Combined with the ubiquitous scarlets of Freeman Maples (Acer freemanii</em>) and the glowing deep purple and gold of White Ash--which is also very popular--the street scene around Denver was very New England. I have a hunch that the show will continue well into November. Colorado does Indian summer with a vengeance, don't forget! With our Allan Houser sculpture exhibit, it is all the more appropriate it do so.</p>
Even though the Haitian constitution mandates the establishment of a national botanical and zoological garden, Haiti is one of few countries in the world without a national botanical garden. Following the January 12, 2010 earthquake, the need to establish a national botanical garden has become all the more important in order to develop a platform to conserve plants and habitats, provide horticultural training and environmental education, create a place of retreat and solitude for the local population, develop tourism opportunities leading to economic development, and play a role in poverty alleviation by providing rural outreach in sustainable horticultural practices. The vision of Mr. William Cinea, a passionate champion for the establishment of national botanical garden in Haiti, is being brought to fruition this week though the International Symposium on the Creation of a Haitian National Botanical Garden (October 24 and 25, 2011). With 12 international delegates representing botanic gardens in five countries, the symposium today focused on the role of a botanic garden in rebuilding Haiti. Over 100 local Haitian professionals from various civic, development, ecological, and botanical fields are attending this symposium to learn about the role of botanic gardens and their impact on the community. Denver Botanic Gardens is one of six botanic gardens in the United States to be part of this initiative. The creation of this garden will have long-lasting impacts on the Haitian economy, culture, natural heritage, and youth. </p>
