This feels like a long winter. Not because there have been blizzards every other week, but because COVID-19 has been keeping me cooped up inside binge watching episodes of Magnum P.I., just so I could feel like I went on vacation. Fortunately, there have been some wonderfully warm days, which has interrupted my winter madness by allowing me to get into the garden and start my spring cleanup. </p> You can start your spring cleanup as soon as the ground thaws. This is usually in March, but as you know, we have had some thaws during February. Perennials can be cut back to the basal growth, or the crown of the plant. If you look closely, you may be able to see new growth popping up through the crown. On more delicate perennials such as lupine (Lupinus</em>) or columbine (Aquilegia</em>), I use my hands to clean out the dead. On tougher plants, I use a small garden rake, especially with ground covers like lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantine</em>). </p> Cut grasses back by leaving 1 to 2 inches of old growth, which protects new shoots and keeps things looking tidy. While some grasses like blue avena grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens</em>) do not require cutting back (try combing through it with your hands to release the dead blades) many grasses may start showing classic signs of “the donut.” The donut is when your grasses or perennials start to die back in the center and create a hole in the middle of the plant. At this point, you can divide your plants to rejuvenate and reduce the size of the clumps, then just plant the extra clumps for more plants. Win-win!</p> Late winter and early spring are perfect for pruning for shrubs and is not just limited to breaking out the electric shears. As shrubs age, they can get very dense and woody, creating a hedge. If this is your goal, only prune out the dead, damaged or diseased stems. This allows energy to be redirected to newer growth. For shrubs five years or older, you may want to prune out more to allow for air circulation and light penetration.</p> It is most important to know what kind of shrub you have, and whether it blooms on old growth, or new growth. Old growth refers to shrubs that bloom on last year’s growth. These shrubs, such as lilacs, forsythias, and some hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla, H. quercifolia</em>), should be pruned in the summer after they finish blooming. Shrubs that bloom on new growth, or this year’s growth, can be pruned in the spring, such as some hydrangeas (H. paniculata, H. aborescence</em>), and rose of Sharon (Hibiscus</em>). </p> Trees also can use a little dormant pruning during this time, but I like to stick with the rule of never cutting out more than 25 percent of the crown per year. Stick to pruning the 5 D’s: dead, dying, damaged, diseased or disfigured (this includes crossing or rubbing) branches. Make sure you have a plan before you start and remember that this process takes years. </p> Finally, the cherry on top of the sundae: mulch. Giving your beds a two- to three-inch layer of mulch helps to keep in moisture, regulate soil temperatures, protect any shallow roots and promote microbial communities that keep soil healthy. While you don’t want to put mulch directly on top of perennials or up against woody trunks, placing mulch around your freshly cleaned plants will enhance plant health as well as aesthetic. You may only need to rake up the old mulch, give it a nice air fluff and re-apply it to make things look fabulous all season. </p> Spring cleaning doesn’t have to be a rush to the finish line. As soon as we start having nice days, I like to tackle my garden a little at a time. As Billy Ocean said, “Get outta my dreams and into my yard!”*</p> *Not a direct quote from Billy Ocean.</em> </p>
You may be surprised to learn that many species of plants produce flowers in March, from bulbs to the lesser-known variety of perennials, shrubs and ornamental trees that offer fragrance and color in the garden. Let us explore the Gardens to learn about what’s in bloom despite the cool temperatures this time of year!</p> Cercocarpus intricatus</a></em></h3> Native to Colorado and the Intermountain West, the little leaf mountain mahogany is a drought tolerant, native evergreen that blooms late March through most of April. This shrubby, slow grower is in the family Rosaceae and is not a true mahogany (family Meliaceae). In a natural setting, wildlife will forage this plant, which can encourage new growth and a fuller habit. Look for it on the north side of the Roads Water-Smart Garden</strong>.</p> Tulipa humilis </em>‘Lilliput’</a></h3> When it comes to spring bulbs, tulip species (versus Dutch-bred hybrids) aren’t one of the "usual suspects" in the garden. Native to Turkey and the Caucasus, blooming at the end of March and into early April, this cultivar is hardy to zone 3. As you walk west along the Roads Water-Smart Garden</strong>, look for red blooms and foliage low to the ground on the south bed adjacent to the pathway planted among lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina</em>).</p> Galanthus nivalis</em> ‘Flore Pleno’</a></h3> (Double) snowdrop is one of the earliest bulbs to flower. Expect flowers to emerge as early as February and into March. The cultivar 'Flore Pleno' is called double snowdrops as it produces dainty, nodding double flowers. Snowdrops provide an important source of food for honeybees when few other plants are flowering. Galanthus</em> does well under trees and naturalize by producing offsets. It is a great drought and shade tolerant early bloomer that is cold hardy to zone 3. As you near the end of Shady Lane</strong> look south to see this bulb in bloom.</p> Arctostaphylos</em> × coloradensis </em>‘Panchito’</a></h3> Stop by the Darlene Radichel Plant Select® Garden</strong> and you will find a broadleaf evergreen commonly called manzanita. It produces lovely pink small heather-like flowers which hang in small clusters from the branches. Flowers last for up to six weeks and may produce tiny apple-like berries in the summer that songbirds and small mammals enjoy eating. This plant provides shelter and cover for wildlife while leaf litter provides habitat for insects and pollinators. ;</p> Chaenomeles japonica</em></a></h3> Flowering Japanese quince is a traditional garden plant which has long been enjoyed for its open, arching habit and spring flowering bright red, pink, orange or white blooms, depending on cultivar. Flowers emerge in late March and early April and are typically 1- 2 inches with bright yellow stamens. See if you can spot all seven specimens as you walk through the Japanese Garden</strong>.</p> Prunus tomentosa</a></em></h3> The cherry blossoms in Washington, D.C. and throughout Japan are a worldwide known phenomenon. Did you know we have the same experience at Denver Botanic Gardens? A classic flowering ornamental, Nanking cherry has profuse fragrant pale pink blooms that you cannot miss. Note the habit and the form of the plant, which can be pruned to highlight arching habit. Enjoy several other Prunus</em> species in bloom as you stroll through the Japanese Garden</strong>. </p> Pulsatilla vulgaris</em></a></h3> Hairy flower stems emerge from the ground in spring and simultaneously purple flowers bloom as foliage begins to emerge and form. This plant, also known as Pasque flower, spreads by seed and will naturalize throughout the garden. There are many specimens to see as you stroll through the Rock Alpine Garden</strong>.</p>
Why water your garden in the winter?</h4> Colorado winters can vary dramatically when it comes to snowfall and precipitation totals. In the Mile High City and its surrounding suburban communities, any snow accumulation lasting longer than a few days is rare and drought conditions are the norm. Because of this, urban gardens can often suffer from winter drought conditions causing long term challenges especially for newly planted trees and shrubs. </p> Although many perennial plants shed their leaves and go into dormancy during winter months, they are still very much alive and their root systems, buds and stems continue to grow. When there is insufficient moisture, this stresses the plant and inhibits essential metabolic processes from occurring properly. Examples of this include winter kill in lawns and perennial plants not reemerging in spring as the ground thaws. Drought stress can also be seen in trees and shrubs for several years after the drought occurs since it can affect growth rate, leaf production and overall vigor. Drought stress can also make plants more susceptible to disease and insect damage. </p> Best methods for winter watering:</h4> Winter watering should be done 1-2 times per month from late fall into early spring and should be conducted on warm days when temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil is thawed. It should be done using a hose and watering wand or attachable sprinkler around midday allowing enough time for the water to infiltrate the soil before freezing. Placing several empty cups in the garden and watering until each cup has accumulated half an inch to one inch of moisture will ensure that you have adequately watered the soil around the roots of your plants. Using a deep root waterer is also a great way to water trees and shrubs. Once finished, hoses should be removed from the faucet spigot and stored to prevent freeze damage to water pipes, hoses and watering wand attachments. </p> What plants in the garden need to be watered in winter?</h4> Plants that should be watered through the winter months include deciduous and evergreen trees, shrubs and groundcovers as well as perennial flowering plants. Newly planted trees and shrubs are the most crucial as this supplemental watering will allow them to establish more quickly and help them reach their maximum potential growth the following spring and summer. Evergreens are prone to winter desiccation, a process in which more water is lost through the foliage than is absorbed through the roots of the plant, resulting in yellowing or browning of the foliage. It is not necessary to water xeric plants such as cacti, succulents and many drought tolerant native plants as consistently throughout the winter as these plants are well suited for experiencing long periods of drought without detrimental long-term effects.</p>
The Victorian Era was a time rich in technological advances, steeped in following proper social graces and following many rules in which to act. Courtship was regimented, long and had many watchful eyes on young people at social gatherings where they would hope to find a match. Victorians may have been repressed when it came to dating but were the most romantic when trying to gain the affection of those who caught their eye.</p> Rules of courtship and what was acceptable as romance gave way to the popularity of using flowers as a secret language. Although flowers and herbs had been assigned meanings for centuries, it was Lady Mary Montague, the wife of the English ambassador to Turkey, who was responsible for popularizing the use of flowers as messages in Europe. Lady Mary Montague observed the Turks using flowers to communicate expressions of love and sometimes disdain. Enamored by this practice, she wrote letters to her friends in Great Britain describing this practice. Soon floriography dictionaries with lists of flowers and their meanings were all the rage in the United Kingdom and spread all over Western Europe. </p> Tussie Mussies were small, hand-tied bouquets given by suitors to let the apple of their eye know that they fancied them. The specific flowers and herbs used communicated a perfumed message of love and affection. If the recipient was happy to receive the message, she would hold it close to her heart. If this affection was unwanted, she would hold it down by her side and in some instances, gave a return tussie mussie with specific flowers that meant she was not interested. Even the placement of flowers within the bouquet had significant and intricate meanings. The act of flirting, exchanging desires, or rejecting a suitor could be communicated in a somewhat discrete way in a tussie mussie. After a while, tussie mussies began to gain popularity in Victorian culture as gifts and sentiments to mark special occasions like graduations, weddings or the birth of a new baby.</p> Why not break from the traditional bouquet of red roses? Send your special someone a personalized message of love, desire or admiration by using the floral language of the Victorians. Enlist your florist early to help track down the blossoms for a flirtatious bouquet. During the upcoming growing season, create your own tussie mussie from your home garden to mark celebrations or milestones for the special people in your life. There are many publications and floriography dictionaries available to help you create your floral messages.</p> Victorian Flower Meanings</h4> Anemone- Forsaken Bachelor Button- Single Blessedness Carnation Red- My heart aches for you Carnation Yellow- Rejection Daffodil- Unrequited love Dandelion- Faithfulness; happiness Iris- Your friendship means so much to me Ivy- Wedded love Marigold- Jealousy Pine- Hope Poppy Red- Pleasure Rose Pale Pink- Grace Rose Dark Pink-Thankfulness Spider Flower- Elope with me Zinnia White- Goodness </p> This blog post and photos first appeared as an article in Life on Capitol Hill, February 2021.</em></p>
