Mirroring the natural alpine and woodland habitats that the Rock Alpine Garden is inspired by, spring is a great time to walk through this garden. Both alpine and woodland plants bloom early in the year in response to the physical restraints of their native environments.</p> Alpines are programmed to bloom as soon as the snow melts in their native environments. Plants you might find on Loveland Pass or Trail Ridge Road blooming in late June or July bloom in Denver in April.</p> One of the best areas to see true alpines in the Rock Alpine Garden is the crevice garden on the south side of the main path — Draba</em>, Potentilla</em> and Erigeron</em> bloom in tight north facing crevices. Additional areas to see true alpines are in the various troughs scattered through the garden — Silene acaulis</em>, Polemonium viscosum</em>, and Hymenoxys grandiflora</em> should flower by the end of the month. The north side of the Cactus and Succulent house is another great place to focus on the early flowers of Draba</em> from Eurasia, and the mat and cushion forming plants that creep and crawl amongst the rocks.</p> One of my most favorite “secret areas” in the Rock Alpine Garden is the far southern path that takes visitors along the far southern edge of the garden along the perimeter fence. It passes through some of the best woodland areas in the rock garden. Take time to enjoy the full variety of plants in the densely-planted area. If one enters the path near the crevice garden at the east entrance near the South African Plaza and you continue on this path, it will take you into more woodland areas of the rock garden which rarely get the visitation they deserve. Passing down a slight slope take in the various Lenten roses (Helleborus</em>) and woodland sweet peas (Lathryus vernus</em>) along the path.</p> A spectacular show awaits visitors in the far southwest corner of the Rock Alpine Garden along the stucco wall at the boundary with the neighbors. Here a beautiful display of Helleborus</em>, Corydalis</em>, wind flowers (Anemone</em>), bloodroot (Sanguinaria</em>) and violets (Viola</em> odorata</em>) create a tapestry of color in April. Many woodland plants are programmed like alpines to bloom during a short season. Unlike plants high on top of a mountain which are delayed until warm temperatures melt the snow, woodland plants bloom in early spring before the trees above leaf out and block out the sun. This means the woodland areas are at their best in April as well.</p> I hope you can make it to the Rock Alpine Garden in the month of April. While you are at the Gardens make sure and check out the alpine section of the Mordecai Children’s Garden</a> — it should be in prime color as well.</p>
</p>With over a dozen unique venue spaces, most of which can be booked in any season, Denver Botanic Gardens hosts hundreds of private events each year. Most of our venues are tucked in corners around our 23 acres, but one of the most versatile sits right at the heart of the Gardens: the UMB Amphitheater Tent</a>.</p>A vast canopy with a spacious interior, the UMB Amphitheater Tent is our largest single rental space, offering endless flexibility for hosting a variety of events. It is a beautiful venue for daytime or nighttime events and features twinkle lights across the ceiling and open-air sides that can be opened or closed as needed.</p>The tent has the ability to host groups of different sizes ranging from a seated reception for 600 guests, a ceremony or graduation for 1,200 guests, or a cocktail reception for 1,200 people. Smaller-scale events can also use the tent for multiple functions; clients can easily host both a wedding ceremony and a reception under the tent without resetting any furnishings between them.</p>Guests can mingle during a cocktail hour or can enjoy al fresco dining surrounded by views of the Gardens in their peak. Add in acoustic music, delicious food prepared by one of our preferred caterers and your own decorative touch, and this space will transform your event into a truly breathtaking experience for your guests. Whether you are hosting a wedding, a corporate event, a non-profit fundraiser or gala, the UMB Bank Amphitheater may just be the venue you are looking for.</p>Contact our Private Events team for more information at private.events@botanicgardens.org</a> or 720-865-3551.</p>
Be sure to stroll the paths of the Boettcher Memorial Tropical Conservatory where you can enjoy plenty of non-orchid tropical blossoms. Although we are often focused on beautiful flowers, tropical foliage can have its own special appeal. While stopping to “smell the roses,” why not give a little attention to plant foliage too.</p> One of the first plants you might notice as you enter the Tropical Conservatory from our main lobby area is Codiaeum variegatum </em>var. pictum,</em> also known as croton. Crotons are native to southern India and are a great houseplant for high-light areas. There are many crotons on display throughout the Tropical Conservatory with varying leaf forms and color combinations, however the plant by the front entrance may be my favorite. It was added to the Gardens' collections in February of 1965 and was a gift to the Gardens from the Missouri Botanical Garden for inclusion in the first plant displays in our Tropical Conservatory when it opened in 1966.</p> As you make your way deeper into the Tropical Conservatory you will notice several banana plants. The most impressive may be Musa itinerans </em>var. guandongensis, </em>a banana native to the Guandong province of southeast China. While the size of the leaves and the height of the growths are impressive, perhaps the most dramatic feature of this banana is its aggressive suckering growth habit. Be sure to look at the base of the plant and you’ll see why we planted it in a contained area.</p> Another plant with striking foliage is Calathea lancifolia</em>. This plant belongs to the family Marantaceae, or the prayer plant family. This common name was given because many species in this plant family have leaves that fold upward in the evening hours as if folded in prayer. This particular species is from Brazil and has spectacular foliage. Be sure to look for other Calathea</em> throughout the Tropical Conservatory.</p> In the southwest corner of the Tropical Conservatory you will find a ficus tree with amazing foliage. Ficus aspera </em>is native to Vanuatu and is easily recognized by its amazing variegation – even the fruit is variegated. Take a moment to appreciate the tree’s contorted trunk form as well.</p> As you enter Marnie’s Pavilion at the west end of the Tropical Conservatory, you will see another unusual ficus – Ficus americana</em>. This large tree may look like the more familiar Ficus benjamina</em>, but as the name implies, F. americana</em> is native to Central and South America while F. benjamina </em>is native to tropical Asia and northern Australia. Did you know that ficus flowers are all pollinated by wasps?</p> Notice the beautiful complimentary foliage colors as well as the orchid blossoms in the Orangery. See hundreds of exotic blooms at the Orchid Showcase</a> in the Orangery through February 20 – included with admission to the Gardens. The Showcase is open 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily. Don’t forget to look through the glass to see the more unusual orchid blooms on display in our collection greenhouses.</p> We hope you enjoy your visit!</p>
Where do plants go when they die at the Gardens? Most, as you might expect, go to the compost pile, but a select few get a lucky break: a chance to be displayed again.</p> Each fall, armfuls of cuttings are hung and dried in our tool room for winter arrangements. These are what we call “everlasting plants,” varieties that stay crisp and colorful long “since sunshine fed them, or the showers,” as English author Walter Thornbury so sweetly put it.</p> Only the most resilient plant stems, flowers and seed pods make the cut. They not only have to hold their form or color for months after they’re pulled, but they have to take a good battering from the weather.</p> This year, we take you on a tour of more than two dozen winter outdoor containers, from classic elegant designs of cut evergreens, grasses and dried flowers to quirky new displays that depart from the traditional bouquet.</p> We start at the parking garage by the York Street pedestrian crossway, where grasses take center billing in two lively bouquets that move at the touch of breeze. Plumes of pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana</em>) tower above the rose-pink blades of little bluestem grass (Schizachyrium scoparium</em>) and wheat-like flowers of Karl Foerster feather reed grass (Calamagrostis</em> x acutiflora </em>‘Karl Foerster’). Lacy umbels of Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum</em>) and balls of dried hydrangea Annabelle (Hydrangea arborescens</em>) add a playful contrast, while slender stems of Japanese rose (Kerria japonica</em>) give the bouquet a zing of spring green.</p> </p> Crossing York to the front of the Bonfils-Stanton Visitor Center, red twig dogwood shrubs (Cornus sericea</em>) frame the front doors, their limbs angled skyward in grand gestures of hello. Among these living bushes are some of the largest and toughest flowers you can dry, each held high on stems of wood and wire -- giant sea holly (Eryngium giganteum</em>) sprayed white, hydrangea Annabelle tinted chartreuse, moon carrot (Seseli gummiferum</em>) colored red and -- the Cinderella of the bunch -- teasel (Dipsacus</em>), sprayed green.</p> </p> Passing through the Visitor Center and into the Welcome Garden, two large branches arc around the video screen, their bark lightly glazed in glitter. Dozens of ornaments made almost entirely from plants dangle from nooks in the branches, while bundles of dried flowers define tips of the branches with punches of red, green and white. Do you recognize the painted pods of evening primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa</em>)? Or the maple seeds wired into flowers? What about the seed shell from false indigo (Baptisia australis</em>) that’s become the face of a dancing sprite?</p> </p> Turn to your left and you’ll find two garden trellises at the bottom of the stairs that long to be holiday trees. Each is entwined in false spirea (Sorbaria sorbifolia</em>) stems and adorned with reddened stonecrop (Sedum</em> sp.), white statice (Limonium sinuatum</em>) and the dried fruits of teasel sprayed chartreuse. Pine cone ornaments and miniature wreaths of dogwood hang from horizontal wires and cuttings from spruce branches add softness to the display.</p> </p> Next, take a stroll down O’Fallon Perennial Walk to the Romantic Gardens, where the tradition of outdoor arrangements at the Gardens was born. Here, more than a dozen urns arranged by Denver Botanic Gardens Guild volunteers are scattered in beds and gazebos. Evergreen boughs, dogwood stems, hydrangea blossoms and branches of rose hips combine with classic elegance. Scattered among them are wands of pussy willow, ripe with catkins - a whimsical nod to spring - and dried cuttings of dusty miller (Jacobaea</em>), that lend a frosty contrast to deep green needles. Dried flowers, from statice (Limonium</em>) to yarrow (Achillea</em>), punctuate the bouquets with color.</p> </p> Straight ahead in the Ellipse, oversized pine cones and diminutive plants transform urns at the entry into magical little gardens. The cones sit on their ends at playful angles, while red pansies shimmer in the sunlight. Boughs of juniper, speckled with icy-blue berries, and Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum</em>) peek out at the edges. Nearby, perched on a stone railing in front of Waring House, are four more adorable urns. Each contains a single large pine cone nesting among holly grape (Mahonia haematocarpa</em>), rose-colored barberry (Berberis</em>) and yellow-green arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis</em>).</p> </p> Taking a turn west, head down the path past the Herb Garden to the Fountain Beds and Ornamental Grasses Garden, where two little Colorado spruce (Picea pungens</em>) pay tribute to my favorite Christmas book, Mr. Willowby’s Christmas Tree</em>, about a tree cut down to its tiniest and trimmed by woodland creatures. Each is wrapped in a garland of red strawflowers (Xerochrysum bracteatum</em>) and topped with a large seed head of white-washed dill (Anethum graveolens</em>). Bells in acorn shells add jingle, while bleached pine cones lend a frosty touch and sprigs of hawthorn berries, a bit of merriment. This one also includes umbels of moon carrot posing as giant snowflakes.</p> </p>
</p> Each year, we enhance the winter wonderland of Blossoms of Light with more lights, new colors and innovative features. But there’s a lot more to the event than just the lights! After two record-breaking years of attendance, we spent the better part of this year making changes to the event that will improve our visitor experience for all.</p> More Time in the Lights!</strong> This year, the Gardens will close each day at 4 p.m., which will allow us to open the doors to Blossoms of Light at 5 p.m. – half an hour earlier than last year.</p> More Restrooms </strong> In addition to those in the Boettcher Memorial Center and Marnie’s Pavilion, the restrooms at The Hive Garden Bistro are now available all year long.</p> Early Exit Points</strong> Because the Blossoms of Light path is one-way, departing the event early has been a bit of a challenge. This year, we’ve added three early-exit opportunities to guests who need to leave the path for any reason.</p> Ticketing Changes </strong> Limited tickets each night will help us avoid over-crowding. While this does mean that our visitors will need to plan a little farther in advance, it should make even our busiest evenings feel less crowded. In addition, door pricing offers visitors an extra incentive for purchasing in advance – tickets are $5 less than if you purchase at the door the night you attend!</p> Skip the Parking Hassle</strong> We’ve partnered with Lyft to offer Blossoms of Light visitors two different discounts. New users save $5 off their first three rides with code GARDENS17. Existing users save 20 percent on a single ride to or from the Gardens with code BOL2017. And don’t forget: the Gardens is easily accessible by two RTD bus lines, has several Car2Go spots (for the smaller smart fortwo cars) and has a B-Cycle station just outside the main entrance.</p> Got a Question? Drop us a line!</strong> Send us an email at info@botanicgardens.org</a> or call us 720-865-3500 if you have any questions about the event or your tickets.</p> Blossoms of Light is open 5-9 p.m. every night from November 24 - January 1. Advance reservations are highly recommended: purchase in advance for the best price and to ensure admittance on your desired date. Get your tickets today!</a></em></p>
It’s a little hard to believe, but fall truly is upon us. The days are shorter, the air is crisper and, any day now, the trees will let go of their leaves and keep us busy raking until November. During this time of the year, many visitors ask if there are still plants worth seeing in the outdoor displays. Certainly, many flowers are still putting on a show. The easiest way to find them is to follow the hordes of bees and butterflies collecting the last bits of pollen to aid in their journey south or to prepare for their winter break. However, fall is also the best time to appreciate some of the plant features that are overlooked in the warmer months. Among these are berries, evergreen foliage and interesting bark patterns.</p> The snowberry shrub (Symphoricarpus albus)</em>, so called because of the many clusters of small, white berries, is a plant that becomes more beautiful as its leaves begin to drop. Most seasons, the berries persist through the winter providing food for foraging birds. A large group of these shrubs can be seen along the Monet Pond as you enter the Japanese Garden.</p> Another group of plants with a spectacular late-season fruit set are the prickly pear cacti (Opuntia spp.</em>). Throughout several of our gardens, including Water-Smart Garden and Dryland Mesa, Opuntia phaeacantha</em> are covered in fruit that is not only beautiful, but also quite delicious once all the spines are removed!</p> In addition to thriving in dry conditions and producing a gorgeously scented bloom in late spring, the semi-evergreen foliage of Daphne ‘Carol Mackie’ (Daphne x burkwoodii </em>‘Carol Mackie’) also provides an interesting texture to the fall landscape. Deciduous evergreen shrubs are somewhat hard to come by in Colorado; for some of the best examples at the Gardens, check out the Romantic Gardens.</p> My last suggestion for appreciating the Gardens in fall is to admire the tree bark that is so often overshadowed by leaves and flowers during the growing season. That being said, my number one recommendation happens to be the bark of an evergreen tree, Pinus bungeana, </em>or the Lacebark Pine. You must make a visit to the Birds and Bees Walk to see the camouflage-like bark of this gorgeous specimen!</p>
The name of the Japanese Garden at Denver Botanic Gardens, 松風園 Sho-Fu-En, means ‘The garden of pine and wind’ and was inspired by the Rocky Mountain wilderness. </p> During our growing season, we often think of evergreens as a background to colorful flowers and leaves. Winter precedes the vivid colors of spring and summer which then fade away in the fall. Now the evergreens become the focus in the Japanese Garden as most plants go dormant until next spring.</p> December is a wonderful time of the year in the Japanese Garden. We welcome various shades of green against the greys and browns of the early winter landscape. The ancient ponderosa character pines display their movement and structure showcasing the rugged Rocky Mountain scenery. The pines cast their shadow on the lake and the water reflects gentle winter sunlight, changing its appearance throughout the day.</p> In the early morning after a cold and snowy December night, you will find the quiet beauty of 松風園 on the snowcapped flexible ponderosa pine branches. Snow flocks the juniper’s needled branches and the Russian hawthorn’s red berries. Atop the fresh snow we often find a variety of animal footprints, evidence of the mysterious activities of nocturnal creatures in the garden. These slowly melt away under Colorado’s bright winter sunlight.</p>
From time to time, the greenhouse team at Denver Botanic Gardens will build hypertufa troughs. These troughs are a great addition to a garden, especially for showcasing some of the rock garden plants, native wildflowers, and cacti that might otherwise be lost in a larger landscape. We sell our planted troughs at the Spring and Fall Plant Sales and occasionally throughout the season at the Shop at the Gardens. However, if you are interested in making your own hypertufa troughs, I would like to share with you our process and recipe for making a simple hypertufa trough.</p> </p> Supplies</strong></p> For this project, you will need the following supplies:</p> Portland cement (either white or gray--if you are using a dye, the color of the cement will effect the dye)</li> Vermiculite</li> Sphagnum peat moss</li> Concrete dye</li> Synthetic concrete reinforcement fibers</li> A plastic mold, such as a large bowl, a cat litter tray or a dish pan</li> 1mm or thicker plastic sheeting (this can be a thick trash bag, a painting drop cloth, etc.)</li> Water</li> </ul> </p> Where to get supplies</strong></p> In the Denver area, most of these supplies are readily available. The peat moss and vermiculite can be found at most garden supply centers or at a large retail horticulture products supplier. The Portland cement, concrete dye and synthetic reinforcement fibers can be found at any specialty concrete supply store.</p> Supplies prep</strong></p> The task that will take you the longest in your trough making endeavor is the materials prep. The cement and vermiculite can be used as is. It is advised that the peat moss be sieved to remove large particulates and to provide a smaller grain material. However, if your goal is a coarser appearance, the sieving is not necessary.</p> The materials that take the most prep time are the synthetic fibers. When they are purchased, the fibers have the appearance of clumps of white strings. The fibers are added for stability and need to be consistent throughout the batch. To obtain this consistency, the fibers need to be ‘fluffed’ before they can be added to the mixture. This can be done by rubbing the fibers between your fingers until they take on the appearance of a pile of cat hair. It can be quite time consuming, but definitely worth the effort.</p> </p> Tools</strong></p> Dust mask</li> Rubber gloves</li> Wire brush</li> Propane torch</li> A bucket or container for measuring your dry ingredients</li> Wheelbarrow or suitable container for mixing the hypertufa</li> </ul> Mixing the hypertufa</strong></p> Once you have obtained and prepped your materials, it is time to mix the dry ingredients. It is advisable to always wear a dust mask and rubber gloves when working with Portland cement. We have experimented with several recipes; the following recipe is our favorite for strength and appearance:</p> 2 parts Portland cement</li> 3 parts vermiculite</li> 3 parts peat moss</li> 1-2 cups of dye (depending on the color you are hoping to achieve)</li> 3-4 cups of ‘fluffed’ synthetic fibers (this will translate to about a 1/4 cup unfluffed fibers). These fibers will not be added to the dry mixture; rather, they will be mixed in as you are adding water.</li> </ul> The size of the trough (or troughs) you are hoping to obtain will determine the amount of hypertufa you mix. If your goal is to make one small trough, the bucket you are using to measure out your ‘parts’ should reflect this size.</p> </p> Once you have mixed up your dry ingredients in the wheelbarrow/mixing container, it is time to add water. It is important to only add a little bit of water at a time; if your mixture becomes too wet, the end result will not resemble hypertufa. If you have a partner to aid in this process, the extra set of hands will be very helpful. While one person is using a shovel to turn the mixture, the other person can be incrementally adding water and synthetic fibers. This is also a good time to make any adjustments to the color of the mixture by adding more dye, if necessary. The desired result is a mixture that when squeezed in your hand both holds its shape and releases just a few drops of water. If you squeeze the mixture and it feels squishy or you can visibly see a lot of water forcing out, you have added too much water.</p> </p> Filling the forms</strong></p> Now that your mixture is ready to go, it is time to start making the trough by adding the mixture to the form (the plastic container) that you have chosen. As you will have to cover the finished project later with the plastic sheeting, it is a good idea to lay the sheeting down before you begin the molding process. As this is also a bit of a messy project, the sheeting will protect whatever surface you are working on.</p> In general, regardless of the size of your trough, you want the walls and bottom to be between 1-1/2 - 2 inches thick. Begin by adding shovelfuls of mixture to your form. This mixture needs to be compacted (to form the base) either by pushing with your hands or using a block of wood to push it down. If you do not compact the hypertufa, as it dries it will form holes in the trough and will generally lose stability.</p> As you are forming the base, start working your way of the side walls of the form. If the walls of your form are somewhat steep, it may be difficult to compact the mixture against the form. If this is the case, you can try compacting the mixture in your hands and then apply it to the inside of the form.</p> As you continue to build the walls of the trough, remember to keep the thickness consistent. It is very important that you make a drain hole in the bottom of your trough. If the trough is larger, you may want to make two or three holes. This is the best time to make the hole; if you forget, it will be necessary to drill it out once the trough has dried.</p> Curing</strong></p> Once you have molded the hypertufa in to the form and you are happy with the way it looks, it is time to begin the curing process. This is a two stage process; the first part lasts between 24-48 hours and the longer curing should take about four weeks.</p> Immediately after finishing the molding process, you will cover the trough with the plastic sheeting. Between 24 and 48 hours you will remove the trough from the form and leave it under the plastic sheeting. When to remove the trough is determined by the hardness of the mixture. If you can scratch it with your fingernail, it probably needs about 12-20 more hours. If you need a screwdriver to scratch the surface, this is about the right hardness. In general, smaller troughs take longer to cure than larger ones.</p> To get the desired appearance for your trough, this is the time when you would use the wire brush to rough up the outer surfaces of your trough. Most likely the plastic form will have left the trough looking shiny and smooth. Typically, hypertufa troughs have a rough and more weathered appearance. The wire brush will help you alter the texture to your liking. To make the trough as strong as possible, the longer curing method is recommended.</p> Once you have removed the trough from its form and altered the texture, place the trough back under the plastic and keep it at room temperature for four weeks. You will want to occasionally check the trough to make sure it is not drying out. If it feels dry, moisten it with water. After the curing process, if all goes well, you are ready to plant your trough! Remember to use well-draining soils and chose plants that are suitable for troughs.</p> </p>
